Chickens
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I thought this might just help
someone to get started raising
chicks. I didn't know anything about
it until 8 years ago. I had to ask
people questions, but now you can
get info here. Hope this help you - it
better once you start learning
here,and it turns out you'll love your
birds more than you thought you
could. They are wonderful to watch
too! Good Luck and have FUN.
someone to get started raising
chicks. I didn't know anything about
it until 8 years ago. I had to ask
people questions, but now you can
get info here. Hope this help you - it
better once you start learning
here,and it turns out you'll love your
birds more than you thought you
could. They are wonderful to watch
too! Good Luck and have FUN.
Chicken Care
Chickens are simple creatures. They need food, water, protection from man
made hazards, predators and weather, freedom to scratch in the dirt, take
dirt baths, crow and cluck to their hearts content. Ok, so maybe they aren't so
simple. Let's look at the basics.
Chickens are fairly territorial. They are very unlikely to stray from home. When
they do it is usually because there are more roosters than the flock can
handle. The strongest rooster may drive the weaker away. Even then, the
outcast will stay close to the flock. He will sneak back in at twilight and take
advantage of any unsuspecting females. At which point the other roosters, to
show their dominance, will also take advantage of the same hen. This can be
dangerous for the hens, and so keeping a balance is important. The general
rule is to have one rooster per fifteen hens.
A roosters' job is to watch over the hens. Even if he has only one female, a
rooster will stand near her through the day as she scratches in the dirt for
morsels, and takes dirt baths. He will crow throughout the day, letting the
world know, "I'm the head cheese here!"
He will also crow in the middle of the night. This may be why so many
roosters end up at shelters. If one is going to have chickens, a good space
between neighbors is necessary. Roosters are illegal within city limits. So
before one buys an Easter chick or two, one must be ready to deal with
finding a home for the ones who grow up and found to be males. Despite
feed and pet store claims, chickens are rarely sexed properly when young.
There is a down side to having a rooster. Our rooster mated constantly, he
had 16 hens, which is more than enough, and still all the hens were
over-mated until they were bald and barebacked. This also made the hens
nervous and tense. They would pick at each other. As soon as new feathers
started to grow back, they would pull them off each other. I thought maybe
there was some thing I was doing wrong. Did they have enough room? Yes.
Was their diet good enough? Yes. After much thought and debate we
decided that we should think of the whole flock versus one rooster. He had to
go.
So its been a fall and a winter, the hens have successfully grown back their
feathers and they are much happier and content. Their egg production is
normal. I miss the rooster, but our rooster was too overzealous for this flock
of hens.
Not all roosters will over-mate the hens, I see that some people have no
problems with their rooster, and their hens have a full body of feathers. But
you have a problem with bald and barebacked hens, you might have the
same problem as we did.
Why do my chickens have bald spots?
Sometimes a hen will have missing feathers on her head and back due to
overmating. A rooster should have 8 to 12 hens. However, there still may be
a favorite hen that will get more attention than the others. Trimming the nails a
little could help and also removing his spurs. For directions on removing
spurs go to question 8. Sometimes a rooster just may be more overzealous
than normal. In that case you have to weigh the good of all the hens verses
the rooster and he may have to be taken out of the flock.
Also, overcrowding, boredom, or poor diet could cause feather picking.
Make sure the chickens are fed at least a 16% protein feed. It's also good to
give a varietiy of feeds for them to pick at during the day, but be careful not to
make this a substitution for their high protein food. Chickens should have 2
sq. ft. of space per bird in the coop and 4 sq. ft. of space per bird in the pen.
If there is a ring leader that will not stop picking then remove that bird from
the rest of the flock. Also if there is a hurt bird, separate that bird until it is
healed.
Molting is another cause for feather loss, this happens usually in the fall. The
chicken grows new feathers to replace old ones. In some chickens it's hardly
noticeable, but others may have large bald spots
To keep chickens, guardians must provide adequate shelter that is predator
proof. Chickens can be allowed freedom outside of the shelter, because they
will return to the same place nightly to roost. They will also scratch through
any, and all, areas they have access to, so giving them freedom means
putting new seedlings in a garden at risk of being gobbled up. If a gardening
project is desired, one will want to fence it in or give the chickens a fenced in
area of their own to stay in. An area that is twenty-five feet by twenty five feet
is probably adequate for three chickens. At The Sanctuary, we have found
that the main flock will stay within a one fifth of an acre area, even though they
could get into other areas. At the time of this writing, the main flock consists
of twenty-three hens and two roosters. Another five hens and two roosters,
make their way out of the general area, yet stay close to their nighttime
lodgings.
Chickens do need a roosting bar of some sort. They will not stay on the
ground at night. Roosting bars are as simple as a two by four board.
Hens also need boxes lined with hay or straw, to lay eggs in, though they may
lay eggs behind objects placed against a wall, or in the odd available corner.
Eggs not retrieved by guardians will eventually be sat on. Shelters will need
periodic cleaning. Roosting bars and hen boxes will need scraping. The
good news is that the waste cleaned up will be very good for the garden!
Chickens are susceptible to attack by raccoons, coyotes, bobcats,
and dogs. They are most vulnerable at night, and so a closed shelter is
warranted. There are also tiny predators that chickens must be protected
from. Lice and mites will easily infect a flock unless steps are taken to
prevent this form happening. Diatomaceous Earth, which can be found at
most garden centers, can be scattered liberally over the floor of the shelter to
prevent infestation. If chickens pick up either of these bugs, sevin dust,
available at garden centers, applied to their feathers will kill the parasites. A
crusty appearance on feet is caused by another bug and can be cleared up
by coating the feet and legs with vegetable shortening. Eucalyptus branches
will also help keep these bugs out of the shelter.
We had this problem with our chickens and ducks
Chickens are very good at finding strings and twine that will entangle their
feet. Keeping these items away from chickens is important. These are not
the only disease issues chickens face. Guardians (us) must watch for
respiratory illness, fungus infections, and egg binding. Early treatment
is essential, so chickens should be watched for changes in behavior.
Chickens should generally be active and alert. Coughing or gurgling when
asleep is a sign of illness. A fluffed up chicken in a corner away from others
is probably very sick. It is important to have a good avian vet to turn to when
illness strikes.
Like other birds, a chickens' diet is very important to good health. A chicken
allowed to scratch through soil will find bugs and, during the spring, new
vegetation. These are good additions to the diet, but not enough to fulfill
nutritional requirements. Contrary to popular belief, hen scratch is not a good
staple. It is made primarily of carbohydrates, and is described as "candy for
chickens." A good all purpose poultry pellet, supplemented with produce,
(scraps of fresh veggies and fruit are perfect), will supply most of the needed
nutrients. Medicated feeds are generally unnessecary.
Note: do not feed medicated feed to ducks or geese or turkeys ( any
game birds as it will kill them).
Hens also need a calcium supplement to stay healthy during laying periods.
The most common, and thoroughly adequate, is oyster shells. Supplementing
the feed with the shells and apple cider vinegar, the latter to help them
absorb the calcium, will offset the problem. Giving a hen egg shells will result
in continual eating of eggs laid. The laying season will run throughout the
period when the daylight hours are at least twelve hours.
A lack of calcium and exercise or to much fat in the diet is often the cause of
egg binding. This is a fatal condition that needs immediate treatment. If your
hen is sitting ruffled up and holding her tail down, she might be unable to
pass an egg. Keep her warm and take her to a vet. Once you have been
shown by an expert how to deal with this problem, you will probably be able
to handle future occurrences.
Like all beings, chickens need fresh water. Both water and food should be
placed in sanitary dishes to augment disease control. Be careful of
galvanized containers, these cause zinc poisoning. Chickens must also be
protected from wading pools and buckets of water. Any water in a container
more than a foot deep can be the cause of drowning. Never put a large dish
of water in baby pin as they will drown - they are nosey.
It's very important to consider the noise factor of chickens before bringing
them home. Thousands of roosters end up at shelters because their crowing
is disturbing neighbors.
Don't think for one minute that chickens are not potential companions. Little
Red likes nothing better than following us around and getting an occasional
ride on the wheel barrel or our shoulders.
Caring for Baby Chicks
Just like puppies, baby chicks are unbelievably adorable and lovable, and
just like puppies, they're a handful! That said, we totally recommend it for
anyone looking for a "pet" flock. This chapter covers all the basics of baby
chick care.
Clearing Your Schedule
Baby chicks require constant care and monitoring, so make sure your
schedule is clear for the first 4 weeks! Don't plan on vacations or even day
trips unless you have a seasoned baby chick pro on standby. Make sure you
or a member of your family are available to check on them at least 5 times a
day.
Deciding Where They're Going to Live
You can keep young chicks almost anywhere: their small size makes them
easy to handle! They grow quickly, though, and by the time they're three or
four weeks old they'll be taking up a lot of space and making a big mess, so
preparing a living space for them is actually quite important. (The good news
is that you can transfer them to their outside coop at 4-5 weeks of age, so
you won't have to deal with the mess for too long... More on that below.)
Ideally you'll have a garage, workshop, basement or another predator-proof
and draft-proof environment that's not in your main living space. Why not the
main living space? Baby chicks, just like grown chickens, love to "scratch"
their bedding materials, which creates a very fine dust that gets everywhere.
The older they get, the more dust they make. Baby chicks also have a smell...
It's not decidedly bad, nor do we find it overwhelming, but you may not want it
in your house.
If you don't have a garage, workshop or basement in which to keep them,
pick the next best option. Do you have a three season porch where it won't
get too cold? A spare bedroom whose surfaces you can cover? If none of the
above, does your kitchen have an eat-in area not too close to prep surfaces
that you're willing to sacrifice for a few weeks? Choose the best possible
option keeping in mind that wherever you keep them, they must be safe from
predators and drafts.
Creating a Suitable Living Environment
This is the one of the most important part of raising happy, healthy chicks.
The baby chick house (also known as the "brooder")
Baby chicks need to be protected from drafts but still have adequate
ventilation. This can be in the form of a cardboard box with holes for
ventilation, a single-faced corrugated cardboard roll, 12" or higher, a large
plastic storage bin, or even a kiddie pool! All of the above have been used
with success.
Whatever housing solution you go with, make sure it provides 2 square feet
per chick. It sounds like an awful lot, but as they get older (and bigger) you'll
realize why this is necessary.
Heat source
Baby chicks need to be kept pretty hot. Think sauna! The first week of their
lives they require an air temperature of 95 degrees, the second week 90
degrees, and so on - going down by 5 degrees per week until they're ready
to transition to "outside". A 250-watt infrared heat lamp is the best way to
achieve this, placed right in the middle of their living area and suspended off
the ground. The height of the light will depend on what it takes to achieve your
target temperature.
We recommend a red heat bulb for a few reasons: one, with a bright white
light constantly glaring it can be hard for them to sleep. The red light is darker
and provides them some respite. Two, red lights help prevent them from
pecking one another. .
Pay close attention to how your chicks behave. If they're all crowded together
directly under the heat source, they're cold. Lower the heat lamp or add
another one. If they're around the edges of the brooder, avoiding the heat and
each other like the plague, they're too hot! Raise the heat lamp. A happy
flock will happily be exploring all around the brooder.
And please do not listen to anyone that tells you a regular old 60 watt bulb will
suffice! We've seen chicks die from this bad advice. They really need a lamp
intended to produce heat, and as we've mentioned, we recommend the
250-watt variety.
Absorbent bedding
Baby chicks are big poopers, so make sure to line the floor of their housing
unit with an absorbent material. The best, we think, is to spread pine
shavings about 1" thick. Resist the urge to use newspaper! It's not nearly as
absorbent and the slippery surface can lead to a permanent deformity called
"splayed leg" which can ultimate result in the other chickens picking on the
affected bird to death. Many people also swear by paper towels, changed
often.
A drinker/waterer
We recommend you don't try to use a dish, a rabbit drinker, or anything you
have just "laying around". Baby chicks have special needs when it comes to
water. Dishes can make it easy for chicks to drown, and they'll certainly do
naughty things like walk in it, spill it, kick their bedding materials into it, and
poop in it -- meaning you'll have to change it constantly. Rabbit drinkers aren't
preferable, either, because not enough chicks can access it at once. For the
best results, we recommend you use a chick waterer. They come in a
number of different sizes and shapes, all basically sufficient.
Keep in mind that even with the best drinker, they'll still kick bedding
materials into it and find ways to poop in it from time to time. Raising the
waterer off the ground somewhat will help (starting their second week of life),
but no matter what they're going to get that water messy, so plan on changing
it a few times a day.
Feeder
Once again, we recommend you resist the temptation to use a dish or bowl
for feeding your chicks. They're messy, and they'll jump in and kick the feed
all over the place, poop in it, and worse case scenario: they'll tip it over and
trap a baby underneath. (This has happened!) Spend those few extra dollars
and buy a "real" baby chick feeder, or borrow one from a friend.
Roosting Poles
Chickens love to roost on poles or branches when they're resting. You don't
have to provide your brood roosting poles, but they'll be even happier if you
do. We like half inch diameter wooden dowels. Try them about 5 inches off
the ground. (They may like it so much they won't roost on top of your feeder
and waterer!)
Feed
Fortunately this one doesn't require much thought! Suppliers have formulated
special feed complete with everything baby chicks need. It's called "starter
feed" and comes in either "crumbles" or "mash" (referring to how ground
down it is). Either is fine. The only thing to know is that if you've had your
chicks vaccinated against Coccidiosis, they'll need an unmedicated feed. If
not, or if you've only had them vaccinated for Marek's Disease, medicated
feed is a great way to keep them healthy those first few months.
A question we commonly get is how long to feed baby chicks "starter feed"
for before switching to a feed called "grower" or "chick grower". The answer
is: it all depends! Each manufacturer formulates their feed differently, so read
the label and follow their instructions. Some only recommend the starter for 4
weeks before moving onto grower; some combine both together in a
"starter/grower" feed that can last up to 16 weeks, etc.
Neighbor ask us whether they can feed their chicks scraps, or worms and
other bugs from the garden... Small amounts of vegetable/dairy should be
fine for the chicks (and they'll love it!), and the same goes with bugs and
worms. But consider those like dessert, not the main course. Starter feeds
contain everything chicks need to survive and thrive, and filling them up with
too much of the "other stuff" can throw off their nutritional balance.
Finally, people want to know how much food they should give their birds. The
answer is: as much as they want! Don't ration it. Give your birds 24/7 access
to all the food they can eat. They're not like dogs. They'll self-regulate.
Grit
Ever heard the saying "scarce as a hen's teeth"? That's right, chickens don't
have them! Instead they eat tiny pebbles and store them in their "crop". When
the food enters their crop, the pebbles grind it up to make digestion easier.
For baby chicks, sand, parakeet gravel or canary gravel, available at your
local pet store or grocery store pet aisle, will suffice. You can either sprinkle
this in their feed or provide it in a small cup or bowl.
Netting for the top
Although most grown chickens are pretty pathetic flyers, young chicks are
much more capable. If your brooder is only 12 inches high, don't be surprised
if you find your week-old chicks perching on top of it! To prevent this, we
recommend you cut a section of deer netting or chicken wire just big enough
to drape over your brooder, or use a 2-foot-high brooder box to increase the
length of time before they're able to "fly the coop".
Bringing Your Baby Chicks Home
First things first: find out what day your chicks will be arriving at the post
office. . Make sure they ship out on Mondays and are guaranteed by the post
office to arrive by Wednesday at noon. Let your postmaster know in advance
that you'll need to pick them up as soon as they arrive.Those baby chicks
need your TenderLovingCare so the sooner you pick them up, the better!
When you get them home, be prepared: one or two may have died in
shipping or may be on their "way out". This isn't due to disease. Some chicks
are born less hardy than others and can't withstand the stress and cold
temperatures involved in transporting them around the country. Most
hatcheries, in fact, prepare for that by including an extra bird or two for free.
(Beware, though some hatcheries will throw in roosters even if you didn't
order them! Care for the weak birds as best you can, and bury the dead
birds as you would any other pet. Also, call the hatchery right away to let them
know if a bird dies. They'll usually either give you a partial refund or a
discount on your next order so long as you notify them within 24-48 hours of
arrival.
A note for parents ordering chicks
Since baby chicks do die from time to time in shipping, we recommend that
if you've got young children you
A) Do not tell them when the chicks are coming,
B) Do not tell them how many chicks you've ordered, and
C) Do not have them with you when you inspect the box for the first
time. This way if there are any losses, you can deal with them without
the kids ever being the wiser. Losses are not common, but when they do
happen they can be devastating to little ones.
Important health notes
Pasting Up
As you move your baby chicks from their shipping box into their brooder kit
(which you've set up and heated in advance, of course!), check them for
"pasting up", a condition in which their droppings cake up and block their
vent opening, preventing them from passing any more droppings. This
problem will be pretty obvious; you won't have to go poking around their
insides to see it. The dried poo will be stuck to their outside, totally or
partially covering their vent. This is a deadly condition and must be resolved
with immediately. We recommend you apply a warm, wet paper towel to their
rears and then use a toothpick to clear the blockage. In especially bad cases
you may have to dunk the chick's rear in warm water before it will loosen up
enough to remove it. Your chick will complain, loudly, but stand fast in your
determination knowing that the chick will die if you don't! Then, dry the chick
off with a blow dryer and immediately return her to the brooder kit with the
others. And keep checking the birds that presented with this problem, for it
often returns throughout the first week.
Immediate access to water
Your new brood will need water right away. Watch them carefully once you've
transferred them to their new home. If they aren't finding the water, pick an
especially spirited one and gently put its beak into the water. This should be
enough to teach them - once one chick's drinking the others are sure to
follow! The same goes with the food: make sure they're finding it. If not, show
them. Resist the temptation to feed your chicks water with a syringe. This can
cause death by drowning, even if you're very careful about it. Just gently dip
their beaks in water. If one is still not drinking, chances are it is struggling to
stay alive and may not make it.
Ongoing Chick Care
Keep checking up on your chicks several times a day. They'll be doing
naughty things like kicking up their bedding into the feed and water, and you'll
have to clean up after them. (Don't forget, they need round-the-clock
access to all the food and water they can get their beaks on!) Also pay
close attention to their behavior. We said it before and we'll say it again
because it's key: If they're crowded together directly under the heat source,
they're cold. Lower the heat lamp or add another one. If they're around the
edges of the brooder avoiding the heat and each other like the plague,
they're too hot! Raise the heat lamp. Not getting this right can be the death of
young chicks.
Changing Bedding
For sanitary purposes and to keep their area from stinking, change their
bedding at least once a week. We throw ours in the compost pile where it's
happily turned into rich earth.
Heating over time
Don't forget that your baby chicks need less and less heat as time goes by.
By their 2nd week the heat can be reduced 5 degrees to 90, by the 3rd week
by another 5 degrees to 85 and so on. However, this is just a guideline.
Continue tuning into their behavioral cues as described above and you'll
know how to tweak their heat. Also, keep in mind that some of your chicks
will develop faster than others, requiring less heat, while the "runty" ones will
want to be closer to the heat lamp. Make sure your heating set-up gives each
chick the choice of how much heat is comfortable to them (in other words,
don't create a uniform temperature by putting the heat lamp inside the box
and then covering the box!)
Dealing with kids & chicks
If you've got kids or you're planning on bringing kids over to see the chicks,
set the boundaries up front. Chicks are irresistibly sweet and cheeky kids
tend to harass them. Make sure you watch the chicks; if they show signs of
distress, be firm and return them to their brooder. Also, if you have chicks are
or were recently pasted up, please instruct your kids to let them be.
Over-handling can prevent a chick that's "on the edge" from bouncing back (it
can be the death of them!
Growing
As your chicks get older you'll understand why we recommended a minimum
of 2 square feet of living space per bird. If you provided them less than that
and your older chicks are picking at one another, do expand their living
quarters. Both you and the chicks will be much less stressed. And as
mentioned above, if they start flying on top of their brooder box, a simple
length of deer netting or chicken wire laid on top of their living quarters should
prevent it!
"Outside" time
After the chicks are 2-3 weeks old, if it's warm outside (65-70 degrees at
least) and sunny, feel free to let them have a little "outdoor time"! Put them in
a wire cage or erect some other temporary housing and place it in the sun,
making sure they have access to water and shade if they need it. They'll
absolutely love digging around in the grass. But don't leave them unattended!
At this age they're VERY good at flying and VERY susceptible to predators.
Plus, if it's windy they'll get cold (and they'll let you know they're unhappy with
their loud chirping).
By 4-5 weeks of age your chickens are ready to move outside full-time. And
thank goodness! As much as you love them, you'll be thrilled to get them out
of your house. Read the next chapters to learn about chicken coop
requirements, how to transition them to their coop and how to care for them
as they get older. Also, keep in mind that if you're purchasing a chicken coop
it can take three or more weeks to arrive, so you may want to have that
squared away before you get the chicks!
Chickens are simple creatures. They need food, water, protection from man
made hazards, predators and weather, freedom to scratch in the dirt, take
dirt baths, crow and cluck to their hearts content. Ok, so maybe they aren't so
simple. Let's look at the basics.
Chickens are fairly territorial. They are very unlikely to stray from home. When
they do it is usually because there are more roosters than the flock can
handle. The strongest rooster may drive the weaker away. Even then, the
outcast will stay close to the flock. He will sneak back in at twilight and take
advantage of any unsuspecting females. At which point the other roosters, to
show their dominance, will also take advantage of the same hen. This can be
dangerous for the hens, and so keeping a balance is important. The general
rule is to have one rooster per fifteen hens.
A roosters' job is to watch over the hens. Even if he has only one female, a
rooster will stand near her through the day as she scratches in the dirt for
morsels, and takes dirt baths. He will crow throughout the day, letting the
world know, "I'm the head cheese here!"
He will also crow in the middle of the night. This may be why so many
roosters end up at shelters. If one is going to have chickens, a good space
between neighbors is necessary. Roosters are illegal within city limits. So
before one buys an Easter chick or two, one must be ready to deal with
finding a home for the ones who grow up and found to be males. Despite
feed and pet store claims, chickens are rarely sexed properly when young.
There is a down side to having a rooster. Our rooster mated constantly, he
had 16 hens, which is more than enough, and still all the hens were
over-mated until they were bald and barebacked. This also made the hens
nervous and tense. They would pick at each other. As soon as new feathers
started to grow back, they would pull them off each other. I thought maybe
there was some thing I was doing wrong. Did they have enough room? Yes.
Was their diet good enough? Yes. After much thought and debate we
decided that we should think of the whole flock versus one rooster. He had to
go.
So its been a fall and a winter, the hens have successfully grown back their
feathers and they are much happier and content. Their egg production is
normal. I miss the rooster, but our rooster was too overzealous for this flock
of hens.
Not all roosters will over-mate the hens, I see that some people have no
problems with their rooster, and their hens have a full body of feathers. But
you have a problem with bald and barebacked hens, you might have the
same problem as we did.
Why do my chickens have bald spots?
Sometimes a hen will have missing feathers on her head and back due to
overmating. A rooster should have 8 to 12 hens. However, there still may be
a favorite hen that will get more attention than the others. Trimming the nails a
little could help and also removing his spurs. For directions on removing
spurs go to question 8. Sometimes a rooster just may be more overzealous
than normal. In that case you have to weigh the good of all the hens verses
the rooster and he may have to be taken out of the flock.
Also, overcrowding, boredom, or poor diet could cause feather picking.
Make sure the chickens are fed at least a 16% protein feed. It's also good to
give a varietiy of feeds for them to pick at during the day, but be careful not to
make this a substitution for their high protein food. Chickens should have 2
sq. ft. of space per bird in the coop and 4 sq. ft. of space per bird in the pen.
If there is a ring leader that will not stop picking then remove that bird from
the rest of the flock. Also if there is a hurt bird, separate that bird until it is
healed.
Molting is another cause for feather loss, this happens usually in the fall. The
chicken grows new feathers to replace old ones. In some chickens it's hardly
noticeable, but others may have large bald spots
To keep chickens, guardians must provide adequate shelter that is predator
proof. Chickens can be allowed freedom outside of the shelter, because they
will return to the same place nightly to roost. They will also scratch through
any, and all, areas they have access to, so giving them freedom means
putting new seedlings in a garden at risk of being gobbled up. If a gardening
project is desired, one will want to fence it in or give the chickens a fenced in
area of their own to stay in. An area that is twenty-five feet by twenty five feet
is probably adequate for three chickens. At The Sanctuary, we have found
that the main flock will stay within a one fifth of an acre area, even though they
could get into other areas. At the time of this writing, the main flock consists
of twenty-three hens and two roosters. Another five hens and two roosters,
make their way out of the general area, yet stay close to their nighttime
lodgings.
Chickens do need a roosting bar of some sort. They will not stay on the
ground at night. Roosting bars are as simple as a two by four board.
Hens also need boxes lined with hay or straw, to lay eggs in, though they may
lay eggs behind objects placed against a wall, or in the odd available corner.
Eggs not retrieved by guardians will eventually be sat on. Shelters will need
periodic cleaning. Roosting bars and hen boxes will need scraping. The
good news is that the waste cleaned up will be very good for the garden!
Chickens are susceptible to attack by raccoons, coyotes, bobcats,
and dogs. They are most vulnerable at night, and so a closed shelter is
warranted. There are also tiny predators that chickens must be protected
from. Lice and mites will easily infect a flock unless steps are taken to
prevent this form happening. Diatomaceous Earth, which can be found at
most garden centers, can be scattered liberally over the floor of the shelter to
prevent infestation. If chickens pick up either of these bugs, sevin dust,
available at garden centers, applied to their feathers will kill the parasites. A
crusty appearance on feet is caused by another bug and can be cleared up
by coating the feet and legs with vegetable shortening. Eucalyptus branches
will also help keep these bugs out of the shelter.
We had this problem with our chickens and ducks
Chickens are very good at finding strings and twine that will entangle their
feet. Keeping these items away from chickens is important. These are not
the only disease issues chickens face. Guardians (us) must watch for
respiratory illness, fungus infections, and egg binding. Early treatment
is essential, so chickens should be watched for changes in behavior.
Chickens should generally be active and alert. Coughing or gurgling when
asleep is a sign of illness. A fluffed up chicken in a corner away from others
is probably very sick. It is important to have a good avian vet to turn to when
illness strikes.
Like other birds, a chickens' diet is very important to good health. A chicken
allowed to scratch through soil will find bugs and, during the spring, new
vegetation. These are good additions to the diet, but not enough to fulfill
nutritional requirements. Contrary to popular belief, hen scratch is not a good
staple. It is made primarily of carbohydrates, and is described as "candy for
chickens." A good all purpose poultry pellet, supplemented with produce,
(scraps of fresh veggies and fruit are perfect), will supply most of the needed
nutrients. Medicated feeds are generally unnessecary.
Note: do not feed medicated feed to ducks or geese or turkeys ( any
game birds as it will kill them).
Hens also need a calcium supplement to stay healthy during laying periods.
The most common, and thoroughly adequate, is oyster shells. Supplementing
the feed with the shells and apple cider vinegar, the latter to help them
absorb the calcium, will offset the problem. Giving a hen egg shells will result
in continual eating of eggs laid. The laying season will run throughout the
period when the daylight hours are at least twelve hours.
A lack of calcium and exercise or to much fat in the diet is often the cause of
egg binding. This is a fatal condition that needs immediate treatment. If your
hen is sitting ruffled up and holding her tail down, she might be unable to
pass an egg. Keep her warm and take her to a vet. Once you have been
shown by an expert how to deal with this problem, you will probably be able
to handle future occurrences.
Like all beings, chickens need fresh water. Both water and food should be
placed in sanitary dishes to augment disease control. Be careful of
galvanized containers, these cause zinc poisoning. Chickens must also be
protected from wading pools and buckets of water. Any water in a container
more than a foot deep can be the cause of drowning. Never put a large dish
of water in baby pin as they will drown - they are nosey.
It's very important to consider the noise factor of chickens before bringing
them home. Thousands of roosters end up at shelters because their crowing
is disturbing neighbors.
Don't think for one minute that chickens are not potential companions. Little
Red likes nothing better than following us around and getting an occasional
ride on the wheel barrel or our shoulders.
Caring for Baby Chicks
Just like puppies, baby chicks are unbelievably adorable and lovable, and
just like puppies, they're a handful! That said, we totally recommend it for
anyone looking for a "pet" flock. This chapter covers all the basics of baby
chick care.
Clearing Your Schedule
Baby chicks require constant care and monitoring, so make sure your
schedule is clear for the first 4 weeks! Don't plan on vacations or even day
trips unless you have a seasoned baby chick pro on standby. Make sure you
or a member of your family are available to check on them at least 5 times a
day.
Deciding Where They're Going to Live
You can keep young chicks almost anywhere: their small size makes them
easy to handle! They grow quickly, though, and by the time they're three or
four weeks old they'll be taking up a lot of space and making a big mess, so
preparing a living space for them is actually quite important. (The good news
is that you can transfer them to their outside coop at 4-5 weeks of age, so
you won't have to deal with the mess for too long... More on that below.)
Ideally you'll have a garage, workshop, basement or another predator-proof
and draft-proof environment that's not in your main living space. Why not the
main living space? Baby chicks, just like grown chickens, love to "scratch"
their bedding materials, which creates a very fine dust that gets everywhere.
The older they get, the more dust they make. Baby chicks also have a smell...
It's not decidedly bad, nor do we find it overwhelming, but you may not want it
in your house.
If you don't have a garage, workshop or basement in which to keep them,
pick the next best option. Do you have a three season porch where it won't
get too cold? A spare bedroom whose surfaces you can cover? If none of the
above, does your kitchen have an eat-in area not too close to prep surfaces
that you're willing to sacrifice for a few weeks? Choose the best possible
option keeping in mind that wherever you keep them, they must be safe from
predators and drafts.
Creating a Suitable Living Environment
This is the one of the most important part of raising happy, healthy chicks.
The baby chick house (also known as the "brooder")
Baby chicks need to be protected from drafts but still have adequate
ventilation. This can be in the form of a cardboard box with holes for
ventilation, a single-faced corrugated cardboard roll, 12" or higher, a large
plastic storage bin, or even a kiddie pool! All of the above have been used
with success.
Whatever housing solution you go with, make sure it provides 2 square feet
per chick. It sounds like an awful lot, but as they get older (and bigger) you'll
realize why this is necessary.
Heat source
Baby chicks need to be kept pretty hot. Think sauna! The first week of their
lives they require an air temperature of 95 degrees, the second week 90
degrees, and so on - going down by 5 degrees per week until they're ready
to transition to "outside". A 250-watt infrared heat lamp is the best way to
achieve this, placed right in the middle of their living area and suspended off
the ground. The height of the light will depend on what it takes to achieve your
target temperature.
We recommend a red heat bulb for a few reasons: one, with a bright white
light constantly glaring it can be hard for them to sleep. The red light is darker
and provides them some respite. Two, red lights help prevent them from
pecking one another. .
Pay close attention to how your chicks behave. If they're all crowded together
directly under the heat source, they're cold. Lower the heat lamp or add
another one. If they're around the edges of the brooder, avoiding the heat and
each other like the plague, they're too hot! Raise the heat lamp. A happy
flock will happily be exploring all around the brooder.
And please do not listen to anyone that tells you a regular old 60 watt bulb will
suffice! We've seen chicks die from this bad advice. They really need a lamp
intended to produce heat, and as we've mentioned, we recommend the
250-watt variety.
Absorbent bedding
Baby chicks are big poopers, so make sure to line the floor of their housing
unit with an absorbent material. The best, we think, is to spread pine
shavings about 1" thick. Resist the urge to use newspaper! It's not nearly as
absorbent and the slippery surface can lead to a permanent deformity called
"splayed leg" which can ultimate result in the other chickens picking on the
affected bird to death. Many people also swear by paper towels, changed
often.
A drinker/waterer
We recommend you don't try to use a dish, a rabbit drinker, or anything you
have just "laying around". Baby chicks have special needs when it comes to
water. Dishes can make it easy for chicks to drown, and they'll certainly do
naughty things like walk in it, spill it, kick their bedding materials into it, and
poop in it -- meaning you'll have to change it constantly. Rabbit drinkers aren't
preferable, either, because not enough chicks can access it at once. For the
best results, we recommend you use a chick waterer. They come in a
number of different sizes and shapes, all basically sufficient.
Keep in mind that even with the best drinker, they'll still kick bedding
materials into it and find ways to poop in it from time to time. Raising the
waterer off the ground somewhat will help (starting their second week of life),
but no matter what they're going to get that water messy, so plan on changing
it a few times a day.
Feeder
Once again, we recommend you resist the temptation to use a dish or bowl
for feeding your chicks. They're messy, and they'll jump in and kick the feed
all over the place, poop in it, and worse case scenario: they'll tip it over and
trap a baby underneath. (This has happened!) Spend those few extra dollars
and buy a "real" baby chick feeder, or borrow one from a friend.
Roosting Poles
Chickens love to roost on poles or branches when they're resting. You don't
have to provide your brood roosting poles, but they'll be even happier if you
do. We like half inch diameter wooden dowels. Try them about 5 inches off
the ground. (They may like it so much they won't roost on top of your feeder
and waterer!)
Feed
Fortunately this one doesn't require much thought! Suppliers have formulated
special feed complete with everything baby chicks need. It's called "starter
feed" and comes in either "crumbles" or "mash" (referring to how ground
down it is). Either is fine. The only thing to know is that if you've had your
chicks vaccinated against Coccidiosis, they'll need an unmedicated feed. If
not, or if you've only had them vaccinated for Marek's Disease, medicated
feed is a great way to keep them healthy those first few months.
A question we commonly get is how long to feed baby chicks "starter feed"
for before switching to a feed called "grower" or "chick grower". The answer
is: it all depends! Each manufacturer formulates their feed differently, so read
the label and follow their instructions. Some only recommend the starter for 4
weeks before moving onto grower; some combine both together in a
"starter/grower" feed that can last up to 16 weeks, etc.
Neighbor ask us whether they can feed their chicks scraps, or worms and
other bugs from the garden... Small amounts of vegetable/dairy should be
fine for the chicks (and they'll love it!), and the same goes with bugs and
worms. But consider those like dessert, not the main course. Starter feeds
contain everything chicks need to survive and thrive, and filling them up with
too much of the "other stuff" can throw off their nutritional balance.
Finally, people want to know how much food they should give their birds. The
answer is: as much as they want! Don't ration it. Give your birds 24/7 access
to all the food they can eat. They're not like dogs. They'll self-regulate.
Grit
Ever heard the saying "scarce as a hen's teeth"? That's right, chickens don't
have them! Instead they eat tiny pebbles and store them in their "crop". When
the food enters their crop, the pebbles grind it up to make digestion easier.
For baby chicks, sand, parakeet gravel or canary gravel, available at your
local pet store or grocery store pet aisle, will suffice. You can either sprinkle
this in their feed or provide it in a small cup or bowl.
Netting for the top
Although most grown chickens are pretty pathetic flyers, young chicks are
much more capable. If your brooder is only 12 inches high, don't be surprised
if you find your week-old chicks perching on top of it! To prevent this, we
recommend you cut a section of deer netting or chicken wire just big enough
to drape over your brooder, or use a 2-foot-high brooder box to increase the
length of time before they're able to "fly the coop".
Bringing Your Baby Chicks Home
First things first: find out what day your chicks will be arriving at the post
office. . Make sure they ship out on Mondays and are guaranteed by the post
office to arrive by Wednesday at noon. Let your postmaster know in advance
that you'll need to pick them up as soon as they arrive.Those baby chicks
need your TenderLovingCare so the sooner you pick them up, the better!
When you get them home, be prepared: one or two may have died in
shipping or may be on their "way out". This isn't due to disease. Some chicks
are born less hardy than others and can't withstand the stress and cold
temperatures involved in transporting them around the country. Most
hatcheries, in fact, prepare for that by including an extra bird or two for free.
(Beware, though some hatcheries will throw in roosters even if you didn't
order them! Care for the weak birds as best you can, and bury the dead
birds as you would any other pet. Also, call the hatchery right away to let them
know if a bird dies. They'll usually either give you a partial refund or a
discount on your next order so long as you notify them within 24-48 hours of
arrival.
A note for parents ordering chicks
Since baby chicks do die from time to time in shipping, we recommend that
if you've got young children you
A) Do not tell them when the chicks are coming,
B) Do not tell them how many chicks you've ordered, and
C) Do not have them with you when you inspect the box for the first
time. This way if there are any losses, you can deal with them without
the kids ever being the wiser. Losses are not common, but when they do
happen they can be devastating to little ones.
Important health notes
Pasting Up
As you move your baby chicks from their shipping box into their brooder kit
(which you've set up and heated in advance, of course!), check them for
"pasting up", a condition in which their droppings cake up and block their
vent opening, preventing them from passing any more droppings. This
problem will be pretty obvious; you won't have to go poking around their
insides to see it. The dried poo will be stuck to their outside, totally or
partially covering their vent. This is a deadly condition and must be resolved
with immediately. We recommend you apply a warm, wet paper towel to their
rears and then use a toothpick to clear the blockage. In especially bad cases
you may have to dunk the chick's rear in warm water before it will loosen up
enough to remove it. Your chick will complain, loudly, but stand fast in your
determination knowing that the chick will die if you don't! Then, dry the chick
off with a blow dryer and immediately return her to the brooder kit with the
others. And keep checking the birds that presented with this problem, for it
often returns throughout the first week.
Immediate access to water
Your new brood will need water right away. Watch them carefully once you've
transferred them to their new home. If they aren't finding the water, pick an
especially spirited one and gently put its beak into the water. This should be
enough to teach them - once one chick's drinking the others are sure to
follow! The same goes with the food: make sure they're finding it. If not, show
them. Resist the temptation to feed your chicks water with a syringe. This can
cause death by drowning, even if you're very careful about it. Just gently dip
their beaks in water. If one is still not drinking, chances are it is struggling to
stay alive and may not make it.
Ongoing Chick Care
Keep checking up on your chicks several times a day. They'll be doing
naughty things like kicking up their bedding into the feed and water, and you'll
have to clean up after them. (Don't forget, they need round-the-clock
access to all the food and water they can get their beaks on!) Also pay
close attention to their behavior. We said it before and we'll say it again
because it's key: If they're crowded together directly under the heat source,
they're cold. Lower the heat lamp or add another one. If they're around the
edges of the brooder avoiding the heat and each other like the plague,
they're too hot! Raise the heat lamp. Not getting this right can be the death of
young chicks.
Changing Bedding
For sanitary purposes and to keep their area from stinking, change their
bedding at least once a week. We throw ours in the compost pile where it's
happily turned into rich earth.
Heating over time
Don't forget that your baby chicks need less and less heat as time goes by.
By their 2nd week the heat can be reduced 5 degrees to 90, by the 3rd week
by another 5 degrees to 85 and so on. However, this is just a guideline.
Continue tuning into their behavioral cues as described above and you'll
know how to tweak their heat. Also, keep in mind that some of your chicks
will develop faster than others, requiring less heat, while the "runty" ones will
want to be closer to the heat lamp. Make sure your heating set-up gives each
chick the choice of how much heat is comfortable to them (in other words,
don't create a uniform temperature by putting the heat lamp inside the box
and then covering the box!)
Dealing with kids & chicks
If you've got kids or you're planning on bringing kids over to see the chicks,
set the boundaries up front. Chicks are irresistibly sweet and cheeky kids
tend to harass them. Make sure you watch the chicks; if they show signs of
distress, be firm and return them to their brooder. Also, if you have chicks are
or were recently pasted up, please instruct your kids to let them be.
Over-handling can prevent a chick that's "on the edge" from bouncing back (it
can be the death of them!
Growing
As your chicks get older you'll understand why we recommended a minimum
of 2 square feet of living space per bird. If you provided them less than that
and your older chicks are picking at one another, do expand their living
quarters. Both you and the chicks will be much less stressed. And as
mentioned above, if they start flying on top of their brooder box, a simple
length of deer netting or chicken wire laid on top of their living quarters should
prevent it!
"Outside" time
After the chicks are 2-3 weeks old, if it's warm outside (65-70 degrees at
least) and sunny, feel free to let them have a little "outdoor time"! Put them in
a wire cage or erect some other temporary housing and place it in the sun,
making sure they have access to water and shade if they need it. They'll
absolutely love digging around in the grass. But don't leave them unattended!
At this age they're VERY good at flying and VERY susceptible to predators.
Plus, if it's windy they'll get cold (and they'll let you know they're unhappy with
their loud chirping).
By 4-5 weeks of age your chickens are ready to move outside full-time. And
thank goodness! As much as you love them, you'll be thrilled to get them out
of your house. Read the next chapters to learn about chicken coop
requirements, how to transition them to their coop and how to care for them
as they get older. Also, keep in mind that if you're purchasing a chicken coop
it can take three or more weeks to arrive, so you may want to have that
squared away before you get the chicks!