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| Double Barrel Cooker= This design is from the book "Real Barbecue" by Greg Johnson and Vince Staten. The essential function of a top-notch barbecue smoker is to keep the meat comfortably separated from flames and direct heat and yet in the path of the hot air and smoke that give it its flavor. Big Baby does this by burning a hardwood fire in her bottom barrel and using the top barrel to contain the meat and direct the smoke. The top barrel also serves as a big, self-contained drip pan that catches meat juices. And the vents and dampers located all along the air path mean that the fire can be precisely controlled, keeping it from dying or flaring up. Besides two 55-gallon drums, the "trick" to the smoker is in making use of wood-stove kits designed to convert such drums into cheap stoves for heating storage sheds and such. The kits come with a cast-iron door, cast-iron legs on which to mount the smoker, cast-iron supports to connect the bottom drum to the one above it, plus flues to connect the two drums. From a hardware store or wood-stove shop, you toss in some dampers and a couple of neat little smokestacks for each end to let the smoke escape from the top drum. Build the "BIG BARREL COOKER" Before you get started, make sure you have the everything you'll need. The drums you should be able to find for about ten or twenty dollars; the stove kits (It Takes Two) are available at hardware and wood-stove stores or by mail order from Northern Hydraulics, 801 E. Cliff Rd., P.O. Box 1219, Burnsville, ME 55337, for less than forty or fifty dollars. The two twenty-two-by-fifteen-inch grill surfaces can be had at a barbecue supply house for twenty-five dollars or so. Add some bolts, brackets, hinges, smokestacks, fire bricks, paint and such, and you're up to a total expense of about a hundred and fifty dollars, more than the price of a simple covered grill but considerably less than the cost of a top of the line smoker, which, by the way, does a horrible job on a rack of ribs. The Steps Paint the barrels first, then start cutting them with your saber saw. Use a fresh metal-cutting blade (ask the guy at the hardware store or tool rental place for one), and prepare yourself for a annoying noise. Cutting through a hollow drum with a bussing saber saw makes enough racket that you may want to consider earplugs. But persevere, and cut a hole for the fire door at one end of the bottom barrel and matching holes in both barrels for the flues that connect them. Cut the top barrel in half horizontally, setting the top half aside. Then do your drilling and mounting and bolting, referring to the directions in the wood-stove kit whenever appropriate. Basically, you want to mount the bottom barrel on its legs (and we recommend connecting these to a couple of (2x4s)for a sturdier base), and then mount the fire door to it, followed by the connecting supports and the two flues (remember to insert the dampers before you bolt on the top barrel). Then you add the top barrel, bolting together the supports and flues between the two. At this point, lay the top half of the top barrel in place and mark holes for the hinges and handles. After the lid is in place, you can drill holes and bolt in place a small chain to keep the lid from falling over backwards. About now you can use the saber saw one last time to cut holes in either end of the bottom half of the top barrel and mount the two smokestacks (again, don't forget those dampers). Drill a hole for your thermometer (an inexpensive dial-type candy thermometer works fine, and even includes a clip that will hold it in place). Line the bottom of the bottom barrel with fire bricks, which keep it from burning through. Then drill and mount the brackets that support the grill surfaces, slap those in place, and call one of those fellows who delivers wood. You're ready to barbecue! It's BEST to operate this smoker over a NON-FLAMMABLE FLOOR, from something as basic as packed dirt or concrete. The Babe sits low to the ground, and her firebox gets more than a extra hot, so she will send any grass in the area to Heaven almost immediately. For a neater look, you could put down gravel and even border the area with bricks. Place to get the parts Parts for the Big Baby are available from Vogelzang International Corp. In Holland, MI. To Make it - ABOUT " 12 hours and $275.00 to construct the smoker". |
| "Do Not pour Hazardous Products Down the Drain, Toilet, or Storm Drains, Ground !!!!!". Drain cleaner= pour boiling water down the drain a couple of times a week as a preventative. Plunger followed by 1/2 cup baking soda and 1/2 cup vinegar and 4 cups boiling water. Silver Polish= soak silver in water with baking soda, salt, and small piece of aluminum foil Copper cleaner= vinegar & salt Furniture polish= mineral oil with lemon juice Powder cleaners= baking soda, non-bleach powders Window cleaners= vinegar & water, dry with newspapers Chlorine bleach= baking soda and water Mothballs = cedar chips and newspapers Mildew remover= 1 to 1 vinegar & salt Air freshener= simmer cinnamon and cloves in water (Garden Products) Garden & houseplant insecticide= one capful dish soap per 1 gal. water and spray on plants Snail and slug killer= hair clippings or stale beer in a dish. Throw-away snails. Ant control= red chili powder, paprika, or dried peppermint at point of entry Fertilizer= compost, peat moss, blood and fish meal |
| Wall Colors= Light colored walls -furnishings -curtains and rugs reflect light and reduce the amount of artificial light needed in a room |
| Chamois Shirt= if it is Stiff, soak it in warm water with a spoonful of Olive oil added. |
| White Socks= boil them in water with a couple slices of lemon |
| Heel Marks= Heel marks on floors can be rubbed off with cosmetic cold cream.The floor shine will not be hurt. |
| Wood Paneling cleaner= 2oz. of white vinegar, to 1 oz. of olive oil,with 1qt. of warm water. Apply with soft cloth and dry with another cloth. |
| Upgrading meats= Buy less expensive cuts of meat and marinate them in vinegar and oil for 2 hours before cooking. |
| Shower Doors= Lemon oil will remove water spots on metal frames of shower doors. Also works on bathroom tiles,and ceramic tiles. |
| Chrome Faucets= use rubbing alcohol to shine them. |
| Rust stains in bathrooms= Use a paste of borax mixed with lemon juice |
| Shoe and Boot Stains= Ugly salt and water stains on leather shoes can be removed by applying white vinegar directly to the stained area only. Then shoes should be polished. |
| Laundry Alternatives |
| Pre-treat Stains:::::: If you can not do it immediately, before you put the article of clothing in the laundry. One of the easiest and cheapest ways is to just mix a bit of dye-free laundry detergent designed to get out stains in a spray bottle with water. (Use dye free detergent because sometimes the dyes in the detergent can stain your clothes worse than the stain that's already there.) Then just spray the stain until it is soaked and throw it in the dirty laundry pile. Pretreated stains should be allowed to set for five minutes before washing, to make sure that the detergent has time to break apart the stain. Works for most stains, but some stains need a little extra attention, so here's what you can do for those: 1. Mustard,Fruit-- Soak these stains in vinegar (a spray bottle filled with vinegar works good: 2. Perspiration-- Sponge with a weak solution of white vinegar and water OR/ sponge with lemon juice OR/ dissolve 2 aspirins and soak the area. 3. Coffee, Tea, Chocolate, Gravy-- Sponge the stain with Cold water (NOT hot water)Then add 2 Tbsp. of Borax to 2 cups of warm water and sponge stain. Rinse well and wash. 4. Blood and Grass-- Pour hydrogen peroxide on stains and rinse or use an oxygenating stain remover OR/==Cover the area with Meat Tenderizer. Apply warm water to make a paste and let sit 20 -25 minutes, them sponge with cool water. 5. Ink-- Pour rubbing alcohol on stain and blot with a rag or paper towel: 6. Wine-- Rub salt into stain. |
| © Disclaimer: Material appearing here is distributed without profit or monetary gain to those who have expressed an interest in viewing the material for research and educational purposes.This is in accordance with Title 17 U. S. C. section 107.Reprinted under the Fair Use doctrine of international copyright law.http://www4. law.cornell. edu/uscode/ 17/107.html Non-profit/Teaching /Educational. |
| The information given here is for educational purposes only. It is not intended to replace or supersede medical advice. Those individuals with a medical problem need to seek medical attention when necessary. Do not use the herbs or remedies posted on this list without the aid or supervision of a well-trained and clinically knowledgeable herbalist. |
| Washing wood work with ease ( painted walls- washable kind-, woodwork and venetian blinds by using a mixture of ) : 1 c. ammonia 1/2 c. vinegar 1/4 c. baking soda w with 1 gallon warm water. Wipe wall or etc with the solution and rinse with clear water. The solution will not dull the painted finish or leave streaks. |
| Removing Stains from china- Equal mixture ( same amount) of salt and white vinegar will clean coffee and tea stains from china. |
| Smoked filled rooms during and by placing a small bowl of white vinegar in the room after a party. |
| Cooking odors- Boil 1 -Tbsp. of white vinegar mixed with 1 c. water helps eliminated odors. |
| A word of caution on making homemade cleaners: never mix bleach with any type of acid such as ammonia or vinegar. It will cause toxic fumes that are very dangerous. Homemade Household Cleaners There is a lot of reasons why making your own household cleaners is a good idea. I have read a lot of information on the dangers of common store bought cleaners. The list of dangers seems to encompass everything from breathing toxic fumes, the harmful effects of the cleaners on your skin to some cleaners being carcinogenic. Aside from the health concerns there is also a financial consideration. Using baking soda and Dawn detergent to cleaning the bath tub. No pre-mixing, simply sprinkle the baking soda on your tub and squirt some Dawn detergent and start scrubbing! I tried and it worked so well! Much better than many of the products I have used in the past and it does not scratch surfaces. If you are wondering what this list of “basic ingredients” are, I will show you: Baking Soda Vinegar Rubbing Alcohol Washing Soda (can be found near laundry detergent in most stores) Borax (also near the laundry section) Mild Dish Detergent ************************************************* Floor Cleaners 1 cup white vinegar 1 gallon warm water Mix in your cleaning bucket and use this to clean vinyl type floors Wood Floor Cleaner 1/2 cup vinegar 1 gallon water The most important thing to keep in mind while cleaning wood floors is that they can not get overly wet. When you use the above mixture, dip your sponge mop into the solution and squeeze until almost dry. Then mop. Never put the cleaner directly on the floor. Dry any streaked or wet area with a clean towel as you go along the floor. ************************************************** All Purpose Cleaners I like to make a large batch of my favorite household cleaner. I make this in a gallon size container and fill spray bottles as I need it. My Homemade Cleaner In a clean, empty gallon milk jug put: 2 Tablespoons ammonia 1 teaspoon dish detergent 1 pint (2 cups) rubbing alcohol 4 drops food coloring – optional a few drops of your favorite essential oil for a nice fresh scent, I use Orange Fill the rest of the gallon jug with hot water. Pour into spray container to use. Here is a cleaner you make right in your spray bottle: All-Purpose Cleaner 2T vinegar 1 t Borax Hot water a few drops of a mild dish detergent 10 drops of essential oil, optional In a 16 spray bottle put vinegar, borax and hot water. Swish around until borax has dissolved. Add the drops of dish detergent and fill the rest of the bottle with water. Add the essential oil (I like using orange or lavender). ************************************************** All Purpose Cleaner in a Bucket (for big jobs like walls) ½ cup ammonia ¼ cup vinegar ¼ cup baking soda Mix the above ingredients with 1 gallon of warm water and use for basic cleaning jobs around the home. Double the above ingredients for cleaning shower walls or other extra heavy duty areas. ************************************************** Window Cleaner This one can be made right in your spray bottle. 1/2 tsp. mild dish detergent 3 Tbsp. vinegar 2 cups water Put all these ingredients into a spray bottle. Shake this up some and use it just like the commercial variety. Homemade Window Cleaner #2 3T Ammonia 1T vinegar Put in spray bottle and fill the rest of the way up with water. ************************************************* Comet Type Scrub Powders This is an easy one. You can use baking soda! Sprinkle on sinks, counters or anywhere you need to get rid of build up or stains. Dampen slightly and scrub with a soft cloth to prevent scratching. ************************************************* Soft Scrubbing Type Cleaners Here is one of my favorites for cleaning counter tops, sinks or any area that needs some scrubbing without the worry of scratching the surface. Homemade “soft scrub” Type Cleaner There are no measurements necessary for this one. Simply put a small amount of baking soda in a bowl and add liquid dish detergent until you have smooth paste or frosting like substance. This very well on sinks and counters and won’t scratch the surface. |
| Alternatives-by-t-j.com |
| Home Ideas |
| How To How to Clean and Season Cast Iron With these cleaning and seasoning instructions, old cast iron pans will make a welcome addition to your kitchen. Follow steps 1-8 for cleaning old pans and 9-14 for seasoning clean or new pans. Difficulty: Average Time required: 15 minutes up Here's How: 1. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection while cleaning cast iron since the methods require using caustic chemicals. 2. Begin by spraying the pan with oven cleaner and putting it in a plastic bag. 3. After a day or two, take it out of the bag and scrub it down with a brass brush. 4. If all the grease doesn't loosen up right away, repeat the process concentrating cleaner on stubborn spots. 5. If you have several dirty items, soak them in a solution of one and a half gallons of water to one can of lye mixed in a plastic container. 6. Allow them to soak for about five days, then remove the pieces and use the same brass brush method to scrub them clean. 7. Removing mild rust should be done with a fine wire wheel on an electric drill. 8. Crusted rust can be dissolved by soaking the piece in a 50 percent solution of white vinegar and water for a few hours. 9. Once the pans clean, begin the seasoning process by warming it in the oven for a few minutes then applying a little shortening, vegetable cooking spray, lard or bacon fat. 10. Put the skillet back into a 225-degree oven for 30 minutes. Remove and wipe it almost dry to eliminate any pooled grease. 11. Place the pan in the oven for another half hour or so, completing the initial seasoning. 12. The seasoning process will continue with use, especially if you use it to cook fatty foods (bacon, sausage, fried foods, etc.) the first few times it hits the stove. 13. To clean after cooking, boil hot water in the pan. Let it soak for several minutes and then wipe dry with a paper towel. 14. Reheat the pan and apply just enough grease to wet the surface before storing. Tips: 1.Use the methods above only for cleaning iron. 2.Don't soak pans in a vinegar solution more than overnight without checking them because the solution will eventually eat the iron. 3.After cooking, do not use detergent or scouring pads to clean a cast iron pan since this will destroy the seasoning. What You Need: Rubber gloves Eye protection Spray oven cleaner Large plastic zip bag Brass brush |
| Question: I was at a yard sale recently, and a lady told me her grandmother had cleaned a very dirty cast iron skillet by wrapping it in a rag soaked in ammonia and leaving it for several days. What do you think of this idea? - Robin (12/5/05) Answer: I had not heard of using ammonia before. I did some searching and did find the following: For heavy burn buildup, such as cast iron pans or Dutch ovens, put the pans in a plastic garbage bag along with a cup of ammonia. Let them sit outside (to avoid the odor!) overnight. The ammonia fumes will loosen the buildup and allow easy cleaning. With cast iron you will need to re-season the surface after cleaning. If you use this technique, please let me know the results. Feedback: I tried ammonia to clean two small cast iron pans. It seems this method works quite well for people who have lots of time to wait and plenty of ammonia. The first pan was VERY rusted. It looked like something had been left in the bottom and rust had formd over top of that and all up the sides. I wrapped the pan in a rag and put it down in a plastic grocery bag. Then I poured ammonia all over it, wrapped it up in the bag, and put that down in another plastic bag to keep the odor down. All in all, (with lots of peeking and a little scrubbing along the way) I left the pan there for two weeks. Most of the amazing stuff happened the first 3 or 4 days. The clumps of rust were gooey and loose after just a day or so. After the first week, I don't think it really made that much more progress, and I ended up hand sanding it the last little bit. The second pan was black and had mild rust all over it. I left it for only one week. It was nearly grey by the time I took it out. I scrubbed it a bit with sand paper, but no more than scrubbing a pot while doing dishes.Using Ammonia for Cleaning Cast Iron |
